By Hayley Babbitt
Above: Me on the Pacific Crest Trail. 2023 by Luke Baum.
Day 0 - From Grand Rapids to LAX:
Subconsciously, I must have had a lot of nerves going into my first day on the Pacific Crest Trail. Before heading to the airport Luke, myself, and both of our families had breakfast at the 76th St Truck Stop Diner. I got my usual “The Basics” breakfast and couldn’t even eat half of it.
Even though I didn’t feel nervous in the forefront of my mind, my body must’ve known the challenges that lay before me on the trail. After breakfast I threw up after my cigarette, which would just be the start of a chain of 3-4 days of throwing up. In Los Angeles eating was still difficult, as my hunger from not eating only made me wish to not eat even more.
Day 1:
Above: A sign, 3 miles north of the Campo trailhead on the Pacific Crest Trail. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
The ride from LA to Campo, thanks to Johnny and Julie Jaime, was still unsettling for my stomach. Just watching the vast desert from the car window that we would have to soon be walking across set in the realization for me of what I was about to do. I can’t thank Johnny and Julie enough though for the hospitality and all they did for us, which made my sickness just a bit more bearable.
After Johnny and Julie left, the first day felt like a day hike to be honest. Granted, we did start our first day on trail at around 1:30pm. We managed to hike a good 4-5 miles this day, which proved to us that maybe 10 miles per day may not be as easy as we thought.
The terrain surprised us almost instantly, as only the first mile or so was flat. It's funny looking back, but we did no investigation what-so-ever into the elevation map for the trail, so we anticipated a hot, flat desert for 700 miles... it's laughable now. Now editing this 250 miles into the trail, I can assure you that this desert can be the exact opposite, having already hit snow and freezing nights (and most importantly, it's almost NEVER a flat trail on the PCT).
Anyways, we ended up setting camp underneath some train tracks in a shaded, rural tent site for that evening. The first night was ended with a nice fire and Jet-boiled backpacking meals, and I didn’t feel so sick anymore. I had high hopes for the trail to come, and was excited for the second day on trail ahead.
Day 2:
Above: Luke setting up our tent on the side of a dirt road. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
We hiked around 9 miles on day 2. As the day and hike went on, I felt more and more sick. We intended on only hiking about 6, since I started feeling miserable around that point, but instead pushed on another 3 miles (all uphill around a “mountain”) with a woman named “Tiki Bird Tracy” from San Antonio.
Condor (Tracy's trail name) was probably in her 40s-50s, if I had to guess, and I was thoroughly impressed by her ability to hike uphill so well at her age (and in the heat not to mention). But when she told me she had been training in San Antonio for the PCT, I knew right away that’s how she was so physically capable. The heat and the hills of SA are not to be messed with! I bet that was an excellent place to train for the desert. It also helped that she had attempted the PCT a couple of times before, and had hiked the first 100 miles or so three other times.
Within our short time together going up the hill, she shared with me that taking small, half steps with toes pointed outward would engage muscles I use less, in result making going uphill a lot more bearable. A couple of days later I would take this advice, and it would be some of the best advice I’ve received so far.
After letting Tiki Bird pass us, we decided to risk it and set up camp on a wider part of a dirt road at the end of the climb. I was feeling very ill and exhausted from trying to keep up with a pace that was way too fast for me in my condition. I ended up eating barely anything, and throwing up all of the little bit I had to eat that day.
To make matters a bit more rough, I decided to set up a line to dry out some wet clothes before heading to bed (and throwing up again while doing so) which all got violently rained on during the night. We woke up to a wet tent, shoes, (almost) all of my clothes, and our gear. It was a rough second day to say the least, and I was heavily questioning my abilities the next morning.
Day 3:
Above: Aerial photo (via drone) of our jam session at the Lake Morena campground. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
We woke up wet, as noted previously. I was feeling better after throwing up and being empty-stomached. With a cold, gloomy (and heavily misting) morning, I was optimistic about the alleged climb we had to make that day. Doing a climb in the cold in the desert should be easier than in the beating sun after all, right?
Little did I know I was still pretty sick, and would continue to feel worse on the climb. I had to stop at almost every bend, and threw up several times before reaching the top. I heavily questioned my physical abilities, and beat myself up about not being able to match Luke’s pace. I got most of my bitching out on this day, to say the least - but rightfully so in my opinion.
Due to my illness, we took it easier this day and did a “Nero” (not a full day's worth of hiking, but still making miles). After 6 miles, we finally reached Lake Morena and I started to feel a bit better. Hearing about the malt shop and town ahead had gave me something to look forward to (like hot, non-backpacking food).
Although I still couldn’t eat much at the malt shop, I had about a half of a crispy chicken sandwich and a couple of mozzerella sticks and Mac n cheese bites. All greasy food, I know. But after picking up an electrolyte drink from the malt shop store I started to feel a lot better.
When we got back to the campground at Lake Morena, where we camped for the night, there were several new backpacker friends awaiting us. We met 3 people from Michigan at the campground, one of which had a ukelele. I decided that this was a sign for a jam session, and that I should bring out my harmonica that I packed with me.
After pleasing the crowd with some tunes, I took out my drone for a few aerial group photos and videos which everyone enjoyed. Not feeling so sick anymore, and now in a good social climate of other like-minded backpackers, I felt a lot better.
Day 4:
Above: (From left to right) Scott and Sailor, founders of TrailAngelCentral.org at the Boulder Oakes campground, California. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
We were second to last leaving the campground in the morning. The only other person left was a German man in his early 40s, “Fred”, waiting for a new tent to arrive in town at the post office. He was nice to converse with, and was planning on hiking around 600 miles or so of the desert on his short VISA. We would end up seeing him later that day at the Boulder Oaks campground where we’d stay at for the night.
We had another light day, so we could work on writing in the afternoon (since we hadn’t at all yet). Immediately when we arrived at the campground, we were met by 3 trails angels as well as a foreign couple (from Sweden and the Netherlands) with a baby that was backpacking the trail for two weeks. The couple was very pleasant, and had an adorable little boy who seemed very interested in hiking poles (future PCT backpacker?!) The mother told me about her charitable travels, including spending 4 years in India, so she was very interesting to listen to.
As far as the trail angels go, we first met Scott and Sailor, a couple based in the Bay Area that founded “Trail Angel Central”. They pulled up in a cute sprinter van filled with all their gear and goodies, and shone lots of wisdom down on us for the hour they were with us.
Sailor, now in her 50s-60s if I had to guess, had hiked the PCT 4 times before and this year will be her fifth. Her and Scott had already hiked around 150 miles or so, and are taking some time off to drive their van around and do some trail-angeling before getting back on trail (waiting on the weather farther north). One of the most impressive things about Sailor, besides the fact she had hiked the PCT 4 times (and not to mention averaging 28 miles/day last year on her thru-hike), is how she manages to keep her backpack at 15 lbs. Scott has a cabin farther north up the trail (Kennedy Meadows?) where he’s been hosting thru-hikers of the PCT for years, and we can’t wait to stay with them further up trail.
After they had left, a trail angel named Doreen showed up to give us some Canada Dry. She is a half-hispanic, middle-aged woman who is native to the borderland. She expressed her “Trumpism” views with us and was eager to share what she has witnessed while living near the border (trafficking, drugs ie: fentanyl, etc.) She was passionate about her views on illegal immigration and was eager to share her first hand accounts living so close to the border.
After Doreen left, a bunch of other hikers showed up to set up camp around us. We met Vista here, a lady in her late 30s, who will be earning her right to a triple crown if she completes this go of the PCT, so that’s very cool. We also met another girl from Livonia, Michigan, who was going it solo. Other note worthy people would include a middle-aged couple who go by “Lilo” and “Sweep”. I am THOROUGHLY impressed with this couple’s ability to hike so fast at their age; but I’ll get into that in the next day. To summarize day 4, it was a nice, chill day that got us rested for the 20-mile-or-so straight climb up to Laguna on day 5.
Day 5:
Above: A (somewhat alarming) sign in the middle of the PCT. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
The climb. At least I was feeling better, not throwing up anymore, and well rested for the daunting climb at task. Everyone couldn’t stop talking about the 20 mile straight uphill hike from (5 miles before) Boulder Oaks to Laguna. Since I had such a hard time on the previous climb, in which I was throwing up and stopping on every bend the whole time, I was very nervous for the Laguna climb. Little did I know, this would be one of the most fun up-hill hikes I’ve ever had.
Although it quite literally has been uphill for miles upon miles, a seemingly endless trail going up several mountainous hills, I decided to hone my inner Tiki Bird Tracy and do the damn thing in half steps. The half step decision was a game changer, and we barely stopped to take breaks the entire climb. We pushed and pushed, climbed and climbed, with at most a 15 minute break the entire way.
I led us a decent pace, and enjoyed every minute of the day. This definitely instilled confidence and courage in my hiking capabilities, especially climbing. My fear of climbing, at least for now, is about over (let’s see if I feel the same way after Kennedy Meadows ie: Forester Pass). We ended up scaling over 3 mountainous hills, totaling around 12 miles almost all uphill. I am very proud of us, and optimistic for our last 4-5 miles up Laguna tomorrow morning.
Above: Mikel, aka "Pinecone", posing by his pinecone decorations at our campsite. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
To make things better, we met up with a friend, Mikel (from the Netherlands), that we had met at the Lake Morena campground. He led us to an excellent, large and shaded spot right next to a creek that we are staying at tonight with him (and Buzz Lightyear, who we had also met at the Lake Morena Campground). Mikel is such a happy, bright and positive young man (27 years old, looks about 22 or 23). He immediately was fascinated with the gigantic pine cones everywhere, and decorated our camp with them. We were so pleasantly surprised to see him again, and already have several trail names for him.
Update: I ended up naming him "Pinecone" at our camp dinner and he loved it. Mikel is now officially Pinecone.*
“Buzz Lightyear” is a 64, about to be 65-year-old man who had hiked the Appalachian Trail some twenty-something years prior. He’s a big man, with big gear to match, but with the personality of a quirky writer. He’s into bad poetry, and writing all sorts of things. He’s taking a lot of zero days, which I don’t blame him for his stature and age, so I’m not sure we will see him again. Still, he’s a very nice and calm presence though, and I wish him the best and hope he makes it as far as he wishes on this trail.
As for our buddy Mikel, we hope to spend some time with him in Laguna tomorrow, and can hopefully convince him to come to the Pine restaurant with us after our climb in the morning (he rejected going to the malt shop in Morena). Hopefully the days just keep getting better. I’m excited to crush some 5 miles uphill, get a cooked meal at the restaurant, and do our laundry and shower in town tomorrow. Oh, and also hang out with our new friend Mikel! Goodnight!
Day 6:
Above: A postcard at the cash register in the Pine House Inn restaurant in Laguna, California. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
The climb up to Laguna was gorgeous, and quick! We woke up super early, around 5am, and braved the freezing cold morning to get an early start on our ascent. Doing the 5 mile climb early in the morning made it relatively easy, and we got to enjoy the rest of the day in town.
Right outside the campground we decided to stay at (Burnt Ranchería), there are two restaurants and a general store. Lunch was at a French restaurant, The Pine House Inn, where I got the bear chicken sandwich of my life along with a cup of fruit and tea. After this we took showers, did “laundry” (I showered with all of my clothes in the quarter shower), resupplied our food, and hung out with some other thru-hikers. There’s a big hiker bubble here tonight at the campground to say the least.
Aside from the socializing, Luke (easily) convinced me to eat double in town again today. I can’t blame him since he especially needs the calories, but I reminded him we don’t have the money (nor is it totally necessary) to splurge like that. Don’t underestimate the power of one good meal, sometimes it doesn’t take more than that. Nevertheless, we met up with a fellow backpacker, Brandon, for dinner at the BBQ place in town. Brandon and I got the most giant caesar salads, which stuffed us.
As much as we enjoyed Brandon's company, he's about 25-years-old, at least 6 foot 3, and is a fast hiker, so we never expect to see him again. It was a nice meal to share with him, and lifted our spirits for the hikers we had yet to meet on the trail ahead.
Day 7:
Above: Luke, standing at the edge of the top of Mount Laguna, California. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
Only one week into our trip, and Luke and I had our first real argument. Although we should have been celebrating our first week on trail, our fatigue had led us to be very emotional and upset with each other over little things for the majority of the day.
Because we were about to hike the most miles this day so far, a good 16-18 miles, we set off bright and early and completely crushed the first 12 miles before noon. Morale was high to see we had come so far so early on in the day, but it was after lunch that tensions between us heightened.
Since we had done so well that morning, I told Luke during lunch that I would like to take the last 6 miles or so fairly easy. I was expressing to him how I was worried that if we pushed the next 6 miles as hard as we did the previous 12 that one of us could feel too sore or get hurt in the coming day or two. Luke got very upset when I told him that we needed to slow down, and firmly stood his ground that he was physically capable enough to push on.
I ended up hurrying with him for the rest of the day, knowing in a couple days time he would be very sore. At least we ended up making camp and going to sleep by 5:30pm after all that hiking and fighting, and made a lot of mileage (over 18 miles).
Day 8:
Above: Another backpacker and I trying to hitch a ride into Julian, California. 2023 by Luke Baum.
Part 2 of Luke’s push. We decided after hiking 18 miles the day before, it just wasn’t enough. Luke was feeling anxious being “so far behind” due to me being sick the first few days and taking a couple of “neros” already. This being said, we pushed almost 22 miles this day to get to the town of Julian, CA.
It was a hot, long, exhausting hike, especially pushing the miles we did after an 18-mile day previously. We were very excited and grateful to get a ride into town with some other hitch-hikers, and put all arguments aside for daydreaming of the food in town ahead of us.
Luke and I shared a big margherita pizza right when we arrived, surrounded by a big group of hikers that had been a day or two ahead of us (that shows you how much we just walked in the last couple of days!) Luke was feeling much better with some food in his belly, and we decided to join some other hikers at the American Legion to camp out on cots for the night.
Over a few beers at the legion, Luke and I really made up for the last couple of days of not getting along with each other. After all, we both are new to this lifestyle we just flung ourselves into, and we have some growing pains. Although the night outside of the legion was frigid (about 38 degrees that night) the cots were several steps up from sleeping on the ground. God bless the American Legion!
Day 9:
Above: Bumbleberry pie and cinnamon ice cream, courtesy of Mom's Pie for thru-hikers in Julian, California. 2023 by Hayley Babbitt.
Waking up outside of the American Legion around 7:30 am; almost all the cot people were gone. After all, many of these hikers had taken their zero day the day prior, and mostly everyone was itching to hitch a ride back to trail to get through the 14-mile-or-so dry carry through the desert that awaited us all.
After running down to the public restrooms in town (the legion was all locked up still), I woke Luke up to get some breakfast. Immediately Luke was sluggish, and as he said “zombie-like”, with popping and pain in his achilles. Worried for my friend, I reassured him that he would get to lay in our hotel bed in the evening and rest his feet and legs. This pain of his could have been avoided if Luke had listened to me on our argument day… but I’m glad he’s getting to learn the lesson first-hand.
After his new-found pain this morning, he’s agreed to take it easier this week, and no more back-to-back 20-mile days for at least another week or two. We have plenty of time to do our 20, 30, and someday even 40-mile days, we don’t need to be racing in the beginning. Besides, we're all waiting for the snow in the Sierras to melt for at least a couple of more months.
Anyways, I’m writing this currently on the Julian Library computer, and just got a text from our old friend Mikel that he is in town! I’m very excited to hang out with him, get a shower, do some laundry, have some free pie from in town, and SLEEP IN A REAL BED (we got a room at the Julian Lodge tonight!). Honestly, I don’t even think I’m as excited for the bed as I am the fact that I get to sleep somewhere WARM tonight.
Well, my computer time is running out now so I’ll get back into town now. I’m just thankful that our phones are charged, we aren’t arguing any longer, and we have lots to look forward to today. Peace out!
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