Along this epic life-changing journey, I'll be recording my thoughts, feelings, and events of my time on the Pacific Crest Trail as part of the 2023 class of thru-hikers.
By: Luke Baum
Contents:
- Day Zero
- Day One
- Day Two
- Day Four
- Day Five
- Day Six
Day Zero:
Finding myself in LA on April 10th was surreal to say the least.
It was the day before Hayley and I have been preparing to take our first steps on our long-anticipated journey and it felt like a whirlwind one thing to another. But when I laid my head to rest in the guest room after being graciously hosted by Hayley’s Tio, I knew I was ready to start my crazy adventure in the morning.
Day One:
There I was at the southern terminus of the PCT. It was something pulled out of a dream of mine, and again, the surrealism hit. I was finally about to start hiking the PCT trail. With a few pictures taken of our joy at mile zero along with the packs on our backs, we finally set one foot on the trail… and then the next and the next and WE WERE FINALLY WALKING THE PACIFIC CREST TRAIL!
My thoughts were immediately preoccupied by everything that was suddenly so relevant: I was thrust into a new way of life with only what I could carry with me.
After all of our planning what gear to bring, my packing list was swimming through my head. I wondered if I needed more; I questioned if I brought too much; new configurations of packing my backpack were being calculated in my brain all while feeling overwhelmed with the beauty of the land I saw before me. I felt so proud of my best friend and I as we began what we set out to do over almost a year and a half ago.
All I knew for certain is that the only thing I really had to worry about was keeping one foot in front of the other.
Around some hills and over some tracks, around a bend and over a rushing creek, everything was coming into focus, and it felt so right to be out in nature; I barely even noticed the pack!
Considering we started well after midday on the 11th, we found ourselves at mile 4.6 when we decided it was time to make camp. After the first site was taken by a rugged gentleman, we nestled under a tree just down the trail off a short path a mere 10 yards from the train tracks.
Camp was set up in no time utilizing only our bug net the first night. We prepared dinner around a campfire and laid our heads to rest after a promising day one.
Day Two:
Our first full day on-trail, and the nerves were thick. Setting off from camp after a good breakfast was the only thing to do, though, and so by a late start of 10 am, we set off!
The sun was shining bright overhead, and the creeks were flowing. This was apparently a recipe for taking a stray “creek sip” or two… which we have since learned our lesson.
After a grueling 9 mile hike up and around mountain after mountain, our confusion and exhaustion grew and grew. “Weren’t we supposed to be hiking in the desert? Not these mountains!” We felt pranked…
Regardless, we continued on.
On the second day, Hayley began to show more and worse signs of sickness, especially not being able to keep much fuel down.
Along the way, we met “Tiki Bird Tracey” AKA “Condor”, a trail name given to her from her career working with birds. She taught us the duck walk, a technique used for climbing uphill that saved both our energy and our wills to continue on.
So after 9 miles, we reached a dirt road and decided to pitch camp here at the only flat land we could find for several miles on either side.
The wind was picking up, the air was getting colder, and so we pitched our big tent along with the accompanying tarp on top to protect us. We were satisfied with the effort we put in that day and rested our heads on our pillows content with the fact we were in the beautiful natural country of the USA.
Day Three:
We awoke in the night to rain pouring onto our tent turning everything we had wet. Over half of our stakes came out of the hard gravel we were forced to push them into. Condensation coated the walls of the tent.
In the morning, we left the tent to see mist and fog blanketing everything as far as the eye could see from our mountainside site. The clothes we hung to dry the morning prior were obviously drenched. It was a sad morning and Hayley got sick at camp immediately after breakfast.
From mile 14 on the dirt road to Lake Morena at mile 20, the third day hosted the hardest trek for us to date.
We hiked down from our camp to Hauser Creek and the canyon it was flowing through only to be faced with an intense climb out and through another stretch of mountainous terrain. All the while, Hayley threw up about 6 times. Luckily there was no sun to bake us, but the rain and mist chilled our bones.
It was a hard stretch to keep us both motivated through, especially with the physical symptoms of sickness Hayley was showing. But finally, Lake Morena came into view, made our descent down the mountains and into the campground. I felt relieved that Hayley would be able to rest, and we could heal up and get a hot cooked meal from the Malt Shop in town.
In making it back to the site with bellies full of food and our spirits lifted, the PCT designated area was filled with about 10 other hikers.
From Mikel AKA “Pinecone” (a kind-hearted Dane with a love for… you guessed it: Pinecones) to “McFly” (an ex-navy soldier who told us he only made it 3 miles on his second day), my horizons were opened to the inspiration and motivation my fellow class of 2023 passed on.
Before long, “BAM” (standing for “beauty-appreciation-moment”) started jamming on the ukulele, and cold beers from the malt shop were being cracked open courtesy of McFly. We shared names and facts about ourselves, Hayley busted out the harmonica and the drone, and my spirits were lifted 10-fold.
We learned that two separate hikers in our circle were from Michigan like Hayley and me. It felt like a little slice of home.
Once I was showered, I fell asleep happy and ready for day four.
Day Four:
Again, the walls were wet with condensation, and I’m sick of having to dry everything before I leave, though everyone treats it more as a routine.
When we woke, Hayley was energized and felt immensely better, which boosted morale for the both of us. It was going to be a good day! We decided to treat ourselves to another meal at the Malt Shop (breakfast this time).
The air was cool, the sun was shining, and the sky was blue and partly cloudy: The perfect mix for a beautiful day of hiking.
The next 6 miles we hiked were up and down easy inclines, through grasslands, and over two rivers.
The scene made our hearts and our spirits soar. It had sunk in that I was actually finally hiking in Cali for the next several months along the Pacific Crest Trail, and by golly were we thrilled!
While crossing the rivers, we met a Czech named Hynek who shared his story and his blog with us. He told us he had diabetes, and he was hiking the trail to prove that with determination, anything is possible.
We continued with Hynek to Boulder Oaks campground, we’re we would call home for the next 15 hours. Immediately upon arrival, we were greeted by other campers who invited us to star gaze with their telescope later that evening, and already we had an itinerary.
Excited and riding a high from an amazing hike that day, we only got more elated when meeting our first official “Trail Angels”: Sailor and Scott. Sailor and Scott were a font of knowledge, and tipped us off on the terrain for the next several miles, tips on how to make our packs lighter, and personal stories regaling her OTHER 4 times of hiking the PCT. She inspired us to drop a couple pounds of gear and pay more attention to water sources to we don’t have to carry so much. This was an opening into the trail community!
Just when we thought things couldn’t get better, another Angel with snacks came to the campground to give us a little trail magic, and as the day went on, more and more hikers came to pitch their tents at the site, and we even met another hiker from Michigan called Brie!
Once we finished dinner and the sun had set, we went to join our other friends to see the stars.
Before we got close to their site, we heard music and as we got closer, we could see their silhouettes dancing in front of the fire. Though the telescope wasn’t functional, we had a great time and met Manuel, who offered us a place to stay if we ever needed anything.
The world is so big, and Hayley and I began raking in the contacts, tips, stories, and good times with everyone we met.
We went back to our tent with stars in our eyes and even more hope on the horizon. The PCT is going to be an epic adventure.
Day Five:
Our tent was frosted over this morning and the condensation made the walls wet once again. This time, something had to be done later when we pitched camp, but for now, the only thing to do was to dry out our gear.
I was the first out of the tent and we were among the last hikers to leave the site in the morning… BUT it paid off when another pair of trail angels came and gave us fruit for breakfast.
With everything we had been given and taught, we were ready to take on the 18 mile uphill hike to Mount Laguna over the next two days!
So on day five, we hiked 12 miles to Long Canyon Creek over mountains that we both felt confident climbing.
We were warned that the hike up the mountain was challenging, similar to what we trekked out of Hauser Creek, but we’ve been conditioned enough over the trails of the last four days.
We passed a lot of day hikers walking the opposite way as us, which made the day go by faster and more pleasant, for Hayley and I could only manage to keep on stepping on foot in front of the other. After a while up the mountain our confidence grew and so continued our spirits.
After 11 miles of hiking, Hayley and I were getting ready to set up camp, and just before we dropped our packs, Pinecone (Mikel from day three at Lake Morena) found us from up trail 1 mile and brought us to a better spot!! We got to know where his trail name came from: scattered all around the site were pinecones he had found and decorated camp with!!
Camp life made us full of excitement as we prepared for the last push out of the canyon and up Mount Laguna for the next 6 miles uphill. We went to sleep after another great day, more connections made, goals for the future, and more understanding of what it means to be a backpacker.
Day Six:
We rose at 5:30 am, on “Sailor Time” to prepare for our short hike up the rest of Mount Laguna. This time, ( whether or not it was because we pitched the tent with a vent open) there wasn’t any condensation on the walls!
On the 6 mile hike up the mountain, we saw snow and suddenly we were surrounded by tall pine trees with needles blanketing the trail, making our journey very reminiscent of home.
It was an easy and enjoyable hike.
We reached the state park at 9am and were greeted by the state park rangers in the golf cart informing us of a free site for the night! It was paid for two nights by the hikers of the previous night, but they moved on for the day. What would have been $36 was free, and so the trail magic continues!
We set up camp and walked down the road to the cutest French-style cabin inspired restaurant named the Pinehouse Inn where I enjoyed a delicious panini. (I had been craving a sandwich for the last six days, so it really hit the spot!!!)
Later, we resupplied at the town/park store. Of course, you’re always running into someone on the trail, and we were clearly in a “hiker bubble”. (Where previously I thought this simply referred to the hikers you personally see often, I learned this term refers to all hikers in the area and describes the sheer quantity staying in one place). Sitting on the porch of the store was “Vista”, “Lilo”, and “Sweep” each enjoying a cold beer from inside.
We stopped to speak with our fellow PCT hikers, and this is where Hayley was given her trail name…
From the stories she has shared with everyone along the way, including showcasing her drone and expressing interest in flying her Cessna, Sweep had come to call her “Jet”. Since then, it’s just stuck!
We enjoyed a quiet and sleepy night at camp for the rest of the day and explored back into town to get some grub for dinner.
After that, we walked back to our site and found sleep for the night.
Day Seven:
We woke early once again on day seven, packed up, and left camp by 7:10am, ready for a long day of hiking.
On this day, we decided to hike more separately. I listened to music for the first time on the trail, and I felt really confident in myself.
After a week of seeing each other and spending all of our time together, it felt right to have a little distance.
The hike on day seven was one of the most beautiful to date in my opinion. We descended from Mount Laguna along side of the hills and mountains, which awarded us with spectacular views of the valleys and plains far below. Along the trail, we stopped at a scenic viewing area, and I learned that the trail we were taking was similar to that of the Laguna Indians journey through the valleys and along the creeks from village to village, which brought a new sense of wonder and appreciation for the trek I was on. There was deep history in the land, not only in the formations of the earth but also how people moved and lived with the land.
We hiked 12 miles before lunch, which was a feat we were both very proud of for ourselves and for one another.
After a 45-minute break for lunch, we continued another six miles until we arrived at a small creek about 4 miles up trail. Here, we filled up with water, for we heard that there may not be reliable water for the next 24-or-so miles until our stop in Julian.
So with a full water carry, we hiked 2 more miles (all but .1 mi directly uphill) and stopped to camp on a slopped plain for the night. There wasn’t another stop for roughly 2 more miles, and it was already 5pm.
After a full day of hiking 18 miles, we stopped to sleep, both out cold by 6:45pm.
Day Eight:
We slide down our sleeping pads all night long on the slope, and we agreed to try and never pitch the tent on a slope again.
Up and at ‘em at 6:30am, we left camp by 7:30, meaning we were getting more efficient at tearing down camp, eating breakfast, and getting ready for a day on the trail.
The road to Julian was 21 miles away, and we planned to stay roughly a mile or two from the road we planned to hitch-hike from. This meant it would be a long day, of cranking out the miles, luckily most of the day’s trip was downhill.
Again, we walked on the sides of mountains through what Hayley lovingly referred to as “‘Cars’ Country” (like from the Pixar movies). We stopped for lunch at noon and continued on and down (with a few steep uphill surprises).
By 3pm, and after 18 miles, we finally reached the plains 2 miles from the road. However, the wind was throughly whipping us. There wasn’t any protect down on the plains other than the sparse bushes that never exceeded over 5 feet tall. Worried that we would be blown away, Hayley and I were suddenly resolute on reaching Julian that night, whatever that may mean.
The “British Brothers” (whom were part of our hiker bubble that day) arrived at our stopping point as we considered our next course of action. It made sense to walk with them to the road for the slim chance that we could hitch a ride with another group they informed us about.
By the time we all reached the road to Julian, the other group the Brothers had been tipped off on was just leaving and had no more room for any of us. Disappointed but not discouraged, we stuck out our thumbs and Hayley took her hair off of her cap (ladies tend to have a better chance of getting picked up while hitch-hiking).
In no more than 10 minutes, Ken and Carol, a lovely couple in a Subaru with plush alpacas decorating the dash, picked us up and drive us to Julian! It was roughly a 20 minute drive, and compared to how fast we’ve been moving across the country, it felt like I was flying up and around the hills.
We reached Julian around 4:30, and all I can say was that I was ELATED and soo proud of us for making it as far as we did. To our amazement and excitement, McFly, BAM, and all of our other friends from Night Three at Lake Morena were there at the same restaurant Ken and Carol delivered us to!! It felt like a reunion, and everyone was so happy to see us. I reintroduced Hayley to the group now as Jet and learned a couple more trail names our friends picked up along the way.
While scarfing down a whole “Mountain Margy” pizza, McFly pointed us towards the American Legion in town, which hosts PCT hikers on the porch. They gave us a cot to sleep on and access to their bar for the night until they closed (12am).
Contented with our effort and where we found ourselves for the night, all who took advantage of the Julian American Legion’s generosity hunkered down in our cots and sleeping bags for a chilly, but hopefully restful night.
Tomorrow is our first “zero day”, and I’m really looking forward to spending that time here in Julian!
Afterword: the trail hasn’t been easy, and this first week’s offered challenges different to anything I’ve ever faced. I’m so excited to see how much I grow on the trail during this life-changing experience!! Thank you to everyone who supports me; I couldn’t do it without you all.
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