By: Luke Baum
Day Nineteen
(Mile 213.4) There was a symphony of alarm noises that ensured we all woke on the wind farm at 4:45am, even though I was so tired that I opted to sleep the 9 extra minutes. We got up so early to beat today’s heat.
Jet, Condor, and I got ready, and while Condor and I made last minute pack adjustments, Jet went off and found us a stash of fresh water bottles from a cooler left at the wind farm for hikers! The trail continues to keep on giving. Bless all the trail angels.
Once we were all set, it was a nice hike up and down the mountain until we reached the Whitewater River by 10:20 (Mile 218.5). Already, the sun was blazing, so we decided to Enjoy a shaded siesta and lunch. I found a spot on the rivers edge under trees. The water was so cool, and I added coconut oil to my diet, so the food was fatty and satisfying. It was a nice siesta.
When it came time to fill up water, I remembered a cautionary tale told to Jet and I by an experienced hiker named Stuff: the River is named not for the rapids the fast-flowing current makes but the sediment in the water. This is what sweep warmed us about: we have to be careful with our water filters and protect them and/or get larger filters to filter the sediment-filled water. I took an extra headband and filtered the water first from that into my bottle, then I filtered it with the Grayle (click the link here to see our gear list).
Afterwards, I notice that my bottles smelled a bit, so to kill the germs inside, I use iodine: drop two tablets per liter, wait five minutes uncovered, cover and shake vigorously, wait 30 mins and then I can drink.
We packed up from our lunch siesta spot at 11:30 and decided to head another 2 miles to the next river spot. This was in order to make up some miles before hitting the trail again later this evening to avoid the heat (it is no joke out here and nothing to be messed with). Water is sucked out of the air, your clothes, your pores, and the heat blazes you.
I wait the allotted time for my iodine water to settle and drink almost a full liter between the 2 miles from our camps.
The next spot is so serene, and it feels like a different world. We’ll wait here for another couple of hours and then head back out after the heat of the day subsides.
We all choose a spot beneath the cliff face under the hanging trees to get out of the searing sun. At this point, we’re all so tired and take actual siestas. Though not able to fall asleep, the sound of the rushing water, the noises of the cicadas* and other bug life, and the breeze coming off the river valley nestled me into a state of peace and calm. I wondered at the world around me and was so inspired to continue to see all of the beautiful places on the planet.
At about 4:30pm we ate dinner and at 5:30, we left our makeshift camp and headed out to cross the river. It was hard to find a spot to cross since river current is strong and the river bottom is rocky and unstable. The river is too wide to hop and too deep to throw rocks big enough to pick up or roll over to make a bridge or stepping stones to the get to the other side.
I came across a point in the river before long that I thought was the first safe spot for the whole group to pass. Because I could see the bottom and it was a wide enough channel that the water wasn’t pouring, I thought it would be perfect. Being the tallest, I was the first to go and check it out for my much shorter companions.
The water was strong, but I remembered to have three points of contact at all times and repeated ordered aloud: “No falling!” at almost every minute.
The river went up to my mid thighs, so the girls couldn’t make it without lifting the packs over their heads to keep them dry. We continued until we found a stretch that was shallow enough for everyone to get across.
Once we crossed the river valley and made sure we wouldn’t be getting our shoes wet again, changed out of our wet socks. I noticed Condor took the soles out of her shoes for one less wet thing to worry about getting dry. Especially because wet shoes are such a concern for blisters, I took note of this for the multitude of creek crossings the next day.
It was becoming nightfall, and so we turned on our headlamps and began our night hike part two.
It’s fun to hike at night because the air is cooler, even though you can’t see much. On this hike, there was a lot of ledge walking. For me, ledge walking has never been a serious concern so far on the PCT, but at night my friends were concerned. We kept on through, though.
You can’t see the views either, but the night noises of the desert are so interesting, and different bugs come out at night! We saw our first scorpion. It was smaller and more pale that expected, but really neat nonetheless.
We continued until mile 226 and camped along Mission Creek in a canyon after climbing up and out from the whitewater river valley.
Eager to get to bed for another early tomorrow, we all simply set up camp and went to bed promptly. night night.
Day Twenty
Today is the mission creek crossing day!
We had to cross the creek at roughly 20 spots, so getting our feet wet was inevitable. I took out the soles of my shoes (just like I learned from Condor) and wore two pairs of socks to protect my feet from the stones and gravel that would come into my shoes on the crossings.
After a couple miles, we caught back up with Condor after she had gone ahead from camp earlier than us the morning.
We stopped with her shortly after for lunch and continued on for 7 miles over 3 thousand of feet of elevation gain.
On the hike, we began to reach out to potential trail angels who could pick us up and take us into Big Bear City for our Airbnb the next day. We tried wherever we got service (which was scarce), and it led to nothing for the day.
Finally, after a challenging and soggy day of hiking, we made camp at mile 235 (elevation: 6150). It was an excellent spot with secluded, sheltered tent sites just uphill from a tributary of Mission Creek.
We decided it would be more comfortable sleep a couple thousand feet below our original destination: Mission Camp (elevation: 7950; mile 238). However, our Airbnb was booked for the next day, so we would have push the last 15 miles to Rainbow Ln. Junction (Mile 250) anyway. On top of that, little did we consider the challenging terrain of San Gorgonio Mountain the next day, but that will be it’s own trial for tomorrow.
We planned to leave camp at 4:45am, so I prepared for the next morning as much as I could for a seamless exit from camp before I went to sleep.
In the end, Jet and I had a really great time at our camp, but a group of two set up right outside our tents after we were asleep around 8:30pm, so the sleep wasn’t continuous…
Night night
Day Twenty One
Today marks 3 weeks on trail!
I woke at 3:30, snoozed until 3:45, and was ready and packed by 4:30. We left camp at 4:50 and we started our third( semi) “night hike”.
It took us a long time to get to Mission Camp. Exhausted, we climb yet another cumulative 2000 ft in elevation up and down the mountain valleys for another 3 miles to Mission camp, which took us over 3 hours.
It was grueling, so we made very early lunch at Mission Camp, which would fuel our remaining 12 miles of hiking.
Though we hiked at around 8000 feet for the remaining time, the snow on the North face of the mountain slowed us down a lot. Blowdowns of trees blocking the trail and alternate routes taken by previous hikers made the next stretch from mile 243-246 long and hard!
At one point, we all knew the trail kept going along the mountain ridge, but one alternate route around the snow and fallen trees took us down to the coon creek cabin service road. We decided to bail from the rest of steep, dangerous snow-ledge walking and walk the dirt path to the cabin (Mile 246.5) and resumed the hike there.
All of a sudden, it hit me!! Our ride was meeting us at mile 250.5, and we only had one hour to spare! At the pace the group had been going, there was no way we could all make it in time, but I knew that after three weeks of backpacking experience and with the raging desire to ensure the ride, I could make it in time! Jet and I agreed that I would hike ahead of our band of three and meet first with Tiana (our trail angel) at the junction of Rainbow Ln and CA 38 and hold the ride until they got there.
So I set out! It was a hard solid climb for 2 miles until it flattened out. The trail took me to another north face, but luckily the trail was intact despite the snow that remained on the trail. After trucking on with some intuitive hiking to stay on trail around confusing bends, past dirt roads, and over slippery snow, I made it to mile 250!! If I had more time, I would've spruced up the mile marker, but I snapped a quick picture and continued on my way to Rainbow Ln. at Mile 250.5!
After an hour and fifteen minutes, I hiked just over 4 miles and finally made it to Tiana’s van. I was so proud of myself for doing it, even if I went over my time limit a bit…
Luckily, she was still waiting and was happy to wait with me for my companions. I enjoyed a good conversation with Tiana and learned about her past relationships, her trail angering, her family, and her traveling desires.
She was diagnosed with an undisclosed sickness, but told me that it wasn’t affecting her anymore, besides apparently giving her very high blood pressure. But she loved to help hikers in need and felt passionate about learning the PCT from us backpackers!
After chatting for an hour (and with great thanks to Tiana for waiting), Jet and Condor appeared in a triumphant arrival!
We were now all here and VERY ready for our 20 minute drive to our Airbnb. the town of Big Bear City is so cute and mountainous, and the drive slightly reminded me slightly of the Glen Arbor area of northern Michigan.
All the residents played well into the theme of Big Bear city; there was bear decor everywhere.
Our house was no exception. We pulled up to the Airbnb cabin, located right next to very small airport. The house is so cute, comfortable and relaxing, and we each got our own bed and accommodations. We snapped a selfie with Tiana to always remember that moment and then made our way inside.
Finally we were here!! I had been imagining the comforts of another place to call home for a few nights.
My time in comfort didn’t last long, as with any town stay, for it was time to go to the store for food for the stay. We didn’t want to go to restaurants, but after I spent absurd amount of money on groceries, I began to think it might be smarter to just go out to eat here. These mountain towns and their limited grocery supplies are not worth it for a few nights.
Not letting it get to me, I returned to the cabin, got comfy, and we had a pizza delivery!! We got two pizzas, breadsticks, and salad from the store. I ate sooooo much. The pizza crust was fluffy and the pizza had so much cheese: just what a hiker needs!
After dinner, Jet and I watched a movie on the sofas, and I fell asleep out in the living room so happy to have reached yet another milestone on our journey.
Planning on another zero day tomorrow in Big Bear before heading back out. With our collective injuries and soreness, hopefully we can heal right up before braving the wilderness once again.
Conclusion
While hiking with Condor was a great time; and I was happy to get to know her, learn her story, and learn about her family; my time with her brought a slight awareness to the fact that doing the trail with others who have a differing hiking style than you can be another huge added challenge to the experience!
In the end, everything works out how it’s supposed to, but finding one’s own path on a journey like this is somewhat essential!
I am really excited to share how I experienced the following weeks on the PCT!
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