By: Luke Baum
Above: Pacific Crest Trail Marker Off the Side of the Road in the Middle of Agua Dulce, California .2023 by Luke Baum
Here comes another week of adventures from Jet and Skywalker on the Pacific Crest Trail in 2023!
PCT Journal 2023 W6: From Vasquez Rock through the Angeles National Forest
Contents:
Day Thirty Six
Today was our first zero day in over a week. It's very well deserved in my opinion. I was awake just before 6am, and a voice in my head told me that if I didn't get to the bathroom now, there would definitely be a long line later. I zipped to the bathroom and then showered before anyone else. I was so happy to be clean for the second day in a row. I went to my bed and curled back up just as the sun began to rise. Here, I chilled and watched my favorite Youtuber until around 9.
At this time, Pinecone was on his way out of the Oasis. Babbs and I hung out with him, keeping him extra long into the late morning. We say goodbye to everyone else before they leave too. We had a very long morning of getting ready, but finally it was time for breakfast in town!
We arrived in the center of Agua Dulce by 11:30am. You take the PCT on your way to town, so I had fun walking to and from Farmer John's. Upon our arrival, we notice there is only one restaurant open. Our choice for brunch is made easy. The restaurant is relatively busy. Like all of these places, the tavern was mostly filled with locals and PCT hikers, and it's easy to tell the difference. We stroll into the Cowboy Tavern with our trail-runners and puffer jackets, hungry and excited!
Above: Pacific Crest Trail Marker Off the Side of the Road in the Middle of Agua Dulce, California .2023 by Luke Baum
The breakfast burrito I devoured here was ssoo good. It was one of the top 5 best breakfast burritos of all time, and I've tried a lot of breakfast burritos in my days. Brunch was relaxing, and we both enjoyed the atmosphere of the restaurant. After, we go directly back to the Oasis.
We hung around the farm some more, sharing stories with other backpackers, planning our upcoming route, and seriously enjoying some much deserved chill. Then, we learn that every other dinner restaurant in Agua Dulce besides Maria Bonita was closed that day. Our choice for food is made easy yet again; we decide to go for dinner at same place we ate at for brunch!
We walk the .3 miles back to the Cowboy Tavern to find that the place had gotten a makeover since we last dined with them. There was a new menu, table cloths, different table settings, and the waiters were even wearing different clothes. Along with dinner came free bread! It was really YUM (we like anything that's free out here in So-Cal)!
I really LOVED my pasta dinner, and then we head back to our camp. There's still time to enjoy our fellow backpackers' company before it's time to make final preparations and go to bed. I'll miss this little oasis and the good vibes put into this place. After the taste of luxuries I had in the last couple of days, I'm a little bit scared of hiking again tomorrow. However, I put all my worries aside and close my eyes, ready for a night full of rest.
Day Thirty Seven
I awoke at Farmer John's just before 6am again. Today, we struggled to get to our destination: the LA KOA. This might have been the hottest day we backpacked in the desert yet! We packed up and said goodbye to Farmer John and his Oasis at 7:30am, which was already too late...
We backpacked through town, taking the same route that became routine for us the last couple days. I wanted to stop and eat breakfast again here in Agua Dulce, but I was vetoed by Jet. Of course, I didn't need to spend the money, but restaurant food is almost always 100x better than backpacking meals...
Directly south of Agua Dulce rests the famous Vasquez rocks, as seen in films like Star Trek. It was very neat that our next portion of the PCT was through an iconic movie set. I was interested to see how over-walked the paths of this park was. Usually, the PCT is recognizable because of how worn it is compared to the other trails around, but EVERY path was well trodden. Overall, the rocks were cool, but you could immediately tell a lot of filming has been done here!
Above: Vasquez Rocks in Agua Dulce, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
From the Vasquez Rocks, the hike was mostly exposed, and it was only getting hotter outside. We hiked lower into a valley where we found a neat cavern naturally dug out at the base of a small mountain. Here, there was a little creek. It was cooler down by the water and especially so under the shade. In hindsight, maybe we should have spent more than 15 minutes here, but I was eager to make it to the KOA in Acton.
We followed along the bank of the creek until we reached the mouth of a long dark tunnel. This would take us under the busy interstate south of Vasquez Rocks. I led us through tunnel, and the creek continued to flow through with us.
Once we exited the tunnel, it was time to ascend the hills again. On this side of the interstate, the hills were covered in low bushes and tall grasses. All of a sudden, I was feeling so hot. The difference in temperature of inside the tunnel compared to the outside felt like 20 degrees. There was no breeze to keep me cool or dry, and as the hike continued, I began to feel hotter and hotter. On either side of the trail, the tall grasses baked us. These plants blocked any slight breeze from reaching our arms or legs. Luckily, because I’m taller than Jet, I could catch a gust or two on my face, but she didn’t get any relief. Before long, she started to throw up from heat exhaustion, but she refused to stop hiking.
Five minutes later, I forced Hayley to take a break and eat something. I told her we needed food and water, and I also had us put on more sunscreen. Safety and health are the only things that really matter out here, not making miles. We stopped hiking, but the sun did not stop blaring down on us. Every second we stood out there was another degree increased in temperature. Jet insisted that we must continue hiking. By this time, I was feeling so tired too, but Jet helped us summon our determination and we continued on.
We hiked up the hills for another 30-60 more minutes before summiting our first mountain today. Here, the wind blew from every direction, and I was finally able to cool down. It felt like taking the hottest bath. I stuffed a chocolate-covered granola bar down and guzzled some water before literally passing out on my backpack in full sun.
I slept for what seemed like mere moments, but Jet told me that I was out for more like 15 minutes, and she was ready to get going. Everything was so cloudy after that nap, but I felt refreshed and single-mindedly focused on walking the trail to the KOA.
It was a good climb down, as we both felt better after some rest and fuel. I had never been to a KOA before, so I was really excited to go to this campground and relax! Jet warned me that KOAs could get kind of nasty, but I've been warned off places along trail before, and something told me that this was going to be exactly what we needed. As we made our way down the mountain, the huge area of the KOA camp came into view.
The camp is nestled in a canyon and covered by a forest of desert trees. The shade is a nice promise. As we continue to reach ever closer to the KOA, I catch a glimpse of something blue and shiny over the hills in the distance... I pointed it out to Jet, hoping it wasn't some sort of mirage. She saw it too. It looked like a pool was in the center of the KOA camp. Finally! The chance to swim in a pool was more real than it had been for the entire trip. With a new fervor to reach the KOA and dive into that pool, we raced down the mountain.
Above: Hayley Booking It to the KOA in Acton, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
We arrived at the KOA (mile 444) and found ourselves at the edge of their trailer park. It was another bit of walking until we reached the main building. All around us were trailers, little cabins, and tents. The whole camp was shaded by large desert trees, and grass was planted into the ground. In the main building, we learn that it costs $20/tent to camp at the KOA, so in an effort to save us some money, Jet and I act as a couple and set up our larger DDXL for two tonight. Also in the main building, I bought myself icecream and cool drinks (including a delicious Aloe Vera beverage), as well as unlimited showers!
More PCTers arrived at this time. We were all ready for some relaxation after backpacking in today's desert heat. Among these arrivals was Artemis. She is a sweet outdoor-education instructor for children. We chat with Artemis for a bit and exchange contacts before all deciding that it's finally time to jump into the pool!!
I rinse myself off in the showers before jumping in! The water feels warm but so refreshing after everything we made it through. Swimming feels like such a luxury on trail. We splash around and laugh, making video content for our movie before getting tired and hungry for dinner.
We invited Artemis to come along with us to town to enjoy some food, but she was content with staying at the KOA for the night. Earlier, we learned about another place frequented by PCT hikers called the 49ers Saloon. Here, hikers can buy food and camp for free out back. We got a ride to the saloon from a nice man called. Mr. Jim. Mr. Jim stays at the KOA camp in an RV, and sometimes he gives rides to backpackers.
It was a calm drive to the 49ers, but the saloon was a busy place! (Apparently not as busy as just an hour prior!) The restaurant inside was packed with backpackers, and it seemed like there were only three people running the whole place! We made our way to a booth at the back where we found some old friends from weeks ago!
Back during the first week of our trip, we met a girl name Brie who lives in Livonia, Michigan. Now, here she was again, greeting us and offering to show us the camping site out back. We couldn't refuse a look; Brie guided us out the back door and off the side behind the restaurant. It looked like a tent village! Almost every free space of ground inside this fenced-in lot was occupied by a backpacker. There had to have been about 30 tents set up. The free camping for PCT hikers sure attracted a lot of business!!
I really wanted to get a video of the place, but Hayley told me that it would be too awkward, so we went back inside to enjoy our food. They served gooooood vegan food! That night, I devoured a veggie burger with a side of chili fries.
After dinner, it was time to head back to the KOA. We found another generous trail angel to drive us back to camp. Once we're back, we see Pepper and Kevin again!! These were two friends of ours from when we hiked the Whitewater River, Mission Creek, and the San Gorgornio Mountains with Tiki-Bird Condor. I had so much fun catching up with them. Along with Artemis, and another backpacker named Dino, our little group clicked so well. That night at the KOA is so relaxing and peaceful. I'm so grateful to have friends and amenities tonight.
Before bed, I shower. Then Jet and I settle into the same tent again, ready for bed, but not so ready to hike out of here tomorrow morning...
Day Thirty Eight
We both slept in until 8am without even needing to check in with each other. Somehow, we both just knew that extra time in our sleeping bags was necessary. Soon after we were awake, we discussed our plans for the day. Both of us wanted to spend more time at the KOA today, as it was already too late to hike out into the spiking heat of the morning.
I was happy that our whole temporary KOA gang also decided to hang out here all day until later this evening! Artemis, Dino, Kevin, Pepper, Jet, and I all enjoyed a nice breakfast under the shade of the trees. I bought a muffin, some fruit, and another aloe vera beverage.
We all continued to hang out. We told stories, shared advice, rested, ate some more, and went swimming in the pool! It really felt like I was at summer camp with some friends all day long. Despite it being such a fun day, it was also the first time I considered that I may not have the funds to come back to trail in June. The plan was to finish the Southern California section of the PCT in Big Bear City. From there, we would make our way back to LA, fly home, Hayley would move to Florida, and then we would come back to finish the rest of the PCT. However, I was spending a lot more money than I needed to if I wanted to finish the whole trail. At this rate, I only had enough left to sustain myself on the bare minimum. It was obvious that I loved the comforts, so that idea seemed dreary. At this time, I just didn't know what to do.
I decided to simply enjoy the rest of the day. I also wanted to hike out to trail before dark. I wanted to feel productive and push us onward. I didn't want us getting too comfortable at the KOA. Jet and I planned to hike out into the mountains after dinner. By this time, the temperature would finally be in the low 80s.
We packed up, and I collapsed the tent before dinner. We cooked ramen for ourselves and snagged one last icecream for dessert. Then around 5pm, we said goodbye to our temporary "tramily" (or "trail-family") before heading our separate ways.
We hiked 4.6 miles until the sun began to set beyond the horizon. Just in time, we began to hear chatter from a river canyon below. We hiked down to an awesome mini-river delta surrounded by mountains. This was such a serene spot. There were about a dozen other hikers camping here. They were all either just finishing their dinner or setting up their tents as the the valley became dusky.
Above: Sunset Over Soledad Canyon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
I was so happy to be camping around other hikers, and even happier to find a square tentsite tucked off to the side just big enough for the DDXL. Again, it would seem clear that sharing a tent between the both of us was the only option. From across the Delta, we attracted a friend, who heard us setting up camp and recognized our voices. It was Brandon! This was the same guy who first recognized us from our feature on the Pacific Crest Trail Instagram page during the first week on trail! We are both so glad we decided to go back out tonight!!
After catching up with our friend, we tucked into our tent. It was already getting surprisingly cold in this valley, and condensation was already forming on the outer shell of the tent. I hugged the covers tighter to myself and relaxed, letting the sound of the frogs waking and croaking in this cool desert river valley lull me to sleep. I could dry my tent tomorrow. Goodnight.
Day Thirty Nine
We both woke at 5am and were out of the valley by 6:00, but not before saying a quick goodbye to Brandon. I'm a little sad to be going separate ways with every friend we make, seeing all of them continue together without us.
Jet and I climbed all the way out of the valley and over to the top of the next mountain to the Southeast. Here, I told Jet that I needed to stop and have a break to eat and take care of “needs”. I also turned on my service and decided to call my family when I saw I had full bars.
Above: Sunrise Over Mountain in Soledad Canyon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
After my break, I hiked about 5 miles alone down trail. During this hike, the tree coverage became denser, which I loved to see! Before long, I found Jet at the North Fork Ranger Station. She was on the phone with her folks, updating them too. Once she finished chatting with them, we gratefully filled our bottles at the water cache located there and continued on our way.
Along our hike, Jet told me that she also got hold of her friend Oliver while waiting for me at the station. He lives in Simi Valley, and we would soon be closer to his house than at any other point on trail. She told me that he was willing to pick us up and take us on an adventure tomorrow! She asked me if I was okay with taking another detour from trail. I responded: How could I pass that up?! I think this trip is all about forging our own paths, and taking our own adventures and opportunities when they arise!
Above: Trails of Soledad Canyon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Jet planned our pick-up point and relayed the information to Oliver. We continued to hike together for another 5 miles. During this time, we passed by the British Brothers! We started the trail around the same time and hiked about 100 miles in the same vicinity until Idyllwild. It was nice to see even more friendly faces!
We made camp along another little creek in a valley. This section of trail was a dirt switchback road, forked in three directions. Technically, there was no marked camping allowed, but the spots were flat and this service road was basically abandoned. I set up camp close to the intersection of two streams, happy to have some space in my own tent tonight. There were lots of bugs near my site, and I even saw a tick! It was a chill night, though. We planned our overnight trip to LA tomorrow, both excited to get to sleep early and meet up with Oliver in the morning.
I chilled, tuckered in, and said goodnight. I was content to have backpacked a total of 15 miles today. As of today, we have hiked 370 miles of the PCT.
Day Forty
We hiked out of camp around 6:30, excited to make it to the Mill Creek Ranger Station where Oliver is scheduled to pick us up in about four hours. The Ranger Station is only another 6 miles away, so we're supposed to arrive extra early!
The hike sped by in a flash. Hayley and I chatted a lot, talking all about our plans to visit the ocean while in LA. We got to the station around 9:30. I was happy to be there, waiting to go back to LA for the third time in the last forty days. We celebrated our 400 milestone while waiting for Oliver, figuring that even people who skip around Mountains Baden Powell and San Jacinto still celebrate 400 miles, so we should too!
Above: Our 400 Milestone along the Angeles Forest Highway at Mill Creek Summit, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Oliver was early to pick us up! He arrived before 10am. This was my first time meeting Oliver, but it somehow seemed like I met him before. It was a very scary drive down the mountain! The sudden descent gave me a terrible headache and stomach pains. All I wanted to do was snooze.
We got to his place, unloaded our gear, showered, and then made our way back out to the beach! Our destination: Ventura! I had never been before, but I recognized the iconic name. By now, I was feeling better and happy to make it to the ocean! We pulled into the public parking lot before exploring the pier. Even on a dreary day like today, it was still busy. We chose a spot on the pier to get some drinks, relax, and get to know each other a little more. I paid for drinks as a token of appreciation to Oliver for picking us up and hosting us.
Above: Jet (right) and Skywalker (me, left) Posing as Divers at Ventura Harbor, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
After enjoying our time on the pier, we ventured to the beach. The sun was trying really hard to breach the clouds to no avail; they were stuck draped on the mountains to the east. There were kids playing on the shore, but there wasn't much surfing; the water was so cold! It was refreshing after being in the hot desert, but it would have been nice to plunge into a semi-comfortable ocean. I guess May is still too early for swimming off the coast of LA!
Above: Collection of Three Views of Ventura Harbor and Santa Barbara Cannel, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
We walked up and across the rocks overlooking the ocean, the beach, and the city. Here, Hayley and I reminisced about the Grand Haven Pier while watching tiny crabs scuttle below amongst the seafoam.
Soon, we got too hungry to stand it and decided it was time to go into Ventura for dinner. It's a cute town with a lot of twinkling lights. Oliver, Hayley, and I walked around the shops and scoped out the best places to eat. Then we finally spotted a nice place with a table for us outdoors. I ordered a pizza and got served a delicious flatbread pizza... I've said that beggars can't be choosers, but I just wished the “pizza” advertised had been described as flatbread!! I was so hungry for those extra calories, and I would've chosen something a little more filling had I known!
However, it was no-harm, so there was no-foul. It was already getting dark by the time we paid, so we all wanted to go back to the house for bedtime. Upon arrival to Oliver's, Jet and I did our laundry, took second showers, tucked in, and went to sleep.
Day Forty One
I slept in until around 9am. By then, I could smell something delicious coming from the kitchen downstairs. Breakfast was ready!! Oliver's dad cooked me vegetarian sausage, eggs, potatoes, and a waffle. Boy, I felt like a king. During breakfast, Jet and I talked plans for the next few days. With our Big Bear destination coming ever closer, it was finally within our sights. The plan remained the same for now, and I had no intention of stressing about what came next. We decided to head back to trail this evening right before dinner, and Oliver would drop us off again.
Now that we had settled plans, it was nap time at the house. I had no idea how much I really needed those extra winks. After, I showered for the third time in two days, packed up, and we all headed back out.
Before hitting trail, it was essential to resupply our food. Five Below was the perfect place for us! We found everything we needed for a very reasonable price. It was just before 5pm when we made it back safely to the Mill Creek Ranger Station.
Above: Sunset at Mill Creek Ranger Station, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
The sudden change in elevation affects me negatively again. I have a pounding headache and my stomach is so unsettled. I feel nauseous and the world is spinning a bit. The hum of the power lines above does not make me feel better. I decide I need to camp here for the night. I'll be headed back out in the morning. It's technically a zero day today, but at least I'm on trail before going to sleep. Night night
Above: Another Sunset at Mill Creek Ranger Station, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Day Forty Two
I was still feeling the altitude sickness a bit when I woke up. I wasn't ready to start the day as quickly as Jet again. I decided to take it slower and stay at camp for an extra hour, enjoying three breakfast bars and a full Liter of electrolyte water. We hiked separate until noon today.
Above: Admiring the Creation of Mountains in San Gabriel Mountain Range, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: View From the North Range of the San Gabriel Mountains, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: Trees On Top of the Angeles Forest in San Gabriel Mountain Range, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: Pacific Crest Trail Signpost in San Gabriel Mountain Range, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
When we met up 4 miles away from camp, we continued on together. Further down trail after we met back up, the PCT diverges on two paths. One path led directly to the camp where we planned to stop for lunch and the other (technically the PCT) looped around the valley. I see rain clouds condensing above and decide it's the best course of action to take the direct route to camp. Jet decides to take the PCT the long way to camp.
Above: Rainclouds Gathering Above the High Desert in Angeles Forest, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
I get to our lunch camp first just as the rain begins to fall in large drops. Jet makes it to camp after a while. She's soaking wet, but luckily she stopped to put a raincover over her backpack, so all of her stuff is dry. We pitch cover using our magic carpet tarps, hiking poles, guylines, and stakes.
We enjoy lunch under the cover of our own shelter and talk about our feelings until the rain stops. Everything of ours is mostly still dry, so we pack up with ease and continued our hike to destination: Camp Glenwood (NOBO mile 400.6). The trail is more wooded at this point, so I neglect to take as many pictures - there just aren't as many vistas. I notice that the trail is the eroded remains of the original Angeles Crest Highway, which I think is very neat!
Tomorrow, we're looking forward to the Mount Baden-Powell road walk along CA2. It's crazy how just earlier this week, we were suffering from heat exhaustion in the low desert, and now we're preparing to hike up amongst the trees and mountains of the chilly high desert! I love the diversity of this landscape!
As I prepare to set up my tent, I realize with a sinking feeling that I left eight stakes behind at our lunch camp! I was quite frustrated, but even more-so, I was disappointed. There was no way I would hike all the way back for them! On the bright-side, I already had extras to begin with, and backpacking is all about being adaptable. I pitch my tent in a new and unique way which allowed three-out-of-four sides of the tent to be covered, and I'll settle with that for now. After all, who knows how the trail will provide in the future?
Afterward
I'm so happy to share another installment from my PCT journal! Thank you to everyone who supports me! I'll catch you all later with another week of adventures from Jet and Skywalker!
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