By: Luke Baum
Above: Me walking through a tunnel down CA2 toward Islip Saddle. 2023 by Luke Baum
Week Seven of the Adventures of Jet and Skywalker on the PCT 2023: from North-Bound Mile 400 to North-Bound Mile 343.
W7 Journal PCT 2023: On the Road Again
Day Forty Three
Day forty three was a lot of fun! Now that Jet and I were hiking in higher elevation than in the low desert, tree coverage around the trail was more dense. ( We began at 6315ft in elevation today). I really enjoy hiking in forest cover. Even though it is harder to see longer distances, the forest provides a magical feeling... as well as shade. From Camp Glenwood (North-Bound or "NOBO" mile 400.6), our goal was to hike 13.9 miles south to Islip Saddle.
*Note: because we began the PCT from the southern US boarder going NOBO, we never stopped going by NOBO mile markers and used subtraction for many of our calculations.
Before we began our great adventure, we learned that there were certain sections of the PCT closed due to extenuating circumstances. Though few-and-far-between, we faced one such section today: the habitat of the yellow-bellied frog. Because these frogs are endangered, the PCT board urges backpackers to take a detour around a roughly 15-mile section of trail. Unbothered with taking an alternate route, Jet and I had a lot of fun on our detour!
Above: Jet preparing to cross Little Rock Creek. 2023 by Luke Baum
After hiking from dawn until just before noon, we stopped for lunch in a serene mountain river valley called Cooper Canyon Falls. We jumped in the water and swam in this icy mountain river, ate, and dried in the sun for a while before continuing to follow the detour. This alternate route took us through more magical mossy river valleys with ginormous trees everywhere. A lot of these huge trees were felled, making them part of our new trail. They offered us paths across the plentiful accumulated snowmelt rivers trickling down the mountaintops from thousands of feet above. I remember feeling like I would see a fairy at any moment. Jet and I swear we saw one of those yellow-bellied frogs!
At the end of the 9-mile detour, we found ourselves in a seasonal campground high in the mountains. The roads leading to this campground are blocked by huge amounts of snow, and currently there are teams digging the road out from both ends. We settled ourselves for a bit and ate lunch at this campground before embarking on the next dominating section of trail: the Highway 2 (or "CA2") roadwalk to Wrightwood.
Above: A view of Mount Williamson along CA2. 2023 by Luke Baum
Jet was more excited about the roadwalk than I was. I was looking forward to a change of pace and being able to walk side-by-side along the two-lane mountain road. However, I anticipated that the hard cement would be a bit more grueling to backpack on than the dirt trail I had become so accustomed to over the last forty-three days. Nevertheless, on we went with a renewed determination to roadwalk roughly 6 more miles until Islip Saddle.
Above: San Gabriel Canyon along CA2. 2023 by Luke Baum
The roadwalk began mostly covered by trees on both sides of the road, but the grandeur of the land quickly exposed itself to us as we reached the edge of the mountain. Now this was certainly a perk of the roadwalk: unimpeded views of the magnificent land at just about every moment! When you're hiking in the wilderness, unless you're on the edge of a mountain or cliff, these views only come every-so-often. These are also known to us as: "BAMs!" (or beauty appreciation moments). By golly, we were taking in one BAM! after another today! Jet was right to be excited for this roadwalk! Along with the amazing views, the climate was lovely up in the mountains but very exposed. The sun was nice and warm as the cool mountain winds blew down on us. (I decided to put on my long-sleeved to cover my arms at this point.) In all, it was an awesome road walk all day long.
Above: Jet admiring Smith Mountain in the distance. 2023 by Luke Baum
Near the end of our roadwalk, we reached a deep, wide tunnel through the mountain. This is when it really sank in for me what we had the privilege of doing. Not many people can say they walked up CA2 or through this car tunnel as it is not normally the route people take through this section of trail. Because the snowfall was record-breaking this year, we were subject to hiking CA2 along this section instead of the PCT as the regular section of trail was virtually impassible. We sang, laughed, and called out, listening to our echos in this ginormous highway passage.
Above: Me walking through a tunnel down CA2 toward Islip Saddle. 2023 by Luke Baum
Once we reached the other side, we're deposited onto Islip Saddle and feeling proud of our amazing day of hiking, especially the 3000 feet in total elevation gain! We set up camp near several other PCTers, enjoy dinner, and hunker down for another day of roadwalking tomorrow. Night night.
Above: Our camp complete with an outhouse on Islip Saddle in the San Gabriel Mountains, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Day Forty Four
Today is the day we hiked 17 miles to Inspiration Point: the location most backpackers reach to grab a hitch to and from Wrightwood, California and the PCT. We had the choice to either continue the roadwalk around the mountain or test our luck on the snowy trail before us. At several points along the road today, the PCT crosses CA2, so one could choose to hike the trail section-by-section along the San Gabriel Mountain Range. Jet enjoyed the roadwalk so much yesterday that we opted to continue along the road complete with panoramic views of the hills and valleys below!
Above: Mount Lewis from CA2 in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Shortly after starting our hike, we came across heavy debris and up to ten feet of snow covering the road. During the roadwalk yesterday, the roads had already been cleared by the teams up here, but now it was crystal clear to me why this mountain passage was closed to drivers.
Above: CA2 snow excavation in Southern California. 2023 by Luke Baum
We continued along, enjoying the scenery and capturing our journey with drone videography (I wonder when we'll finally be sharing the consecutive days-worth of video we captured!). Here and there, the PCT joined and diverged with the highway, but like Jet, I too was comfortable and content with the roadwalk, especially because most of it was starting to look downhill after the first couple of miles.
Above: Dawson Saddle, 1.8 miles from the PCT in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Soon, we reached a small rock-scramble on the road; huge boulders from the either side of the road had toppled down the mountain and blocked the path (picture below). At the same time that we are passing over these boulders, we meet another "experienced hiker". Once Hayley introduces herself as Jet, the woman asks more about her trail-name, learning that Hayley is a pilot. It turns out this lady is also a pilot with her own charter business! Jet and her shared their experiences as women in the flight industry. It was inspiring to hear what both of them have gone through to be where they are today. The experienced hiker gave Jet contacts and references, and then after a pleasant farewell (along with an exchange in tips on the paths ahead for both of us) we moved along with warm spirits.
Above: Highway Bouldering Ahead! on CA2 in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
We had roughly 13 more miles to roadwalk until reaching Inspiration Point. The roadwalk, though pleasant and enjoyable, was mostly the same today. Eventually, we crossed paths with the team tasked with clearing the roads. They used huge machinery to bulldoze the snow, boulders, and gravel off the road. Most of the work was being done in one location that day. From here on and down to Wrightwood, the road was open to drivers, so we had to be diligent in watching for cars. Nearby the road crew's excavation of CA2, there was a rest area called Vincent Gap where we stopped for lunch.
Above: Vincent Gap Parking Lot along CA2 in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
We only had about 6 more miles to walk until reaching our desired hitch location. Though the road was technically closed to us now, we didn't care and continued to roadwalk. There weren't any cars driving up here anyway. These remaining miles were filled with the most stunning views of the whole walk. The snowcapped mountains in the distance were breathtaking. There's nothing even close to resembling these kinds of mountains back home in Michigan. California geography is truly magnificent.
Above: Me standing on the edge of CA2 before Vincent Gulch in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Upon our arrival to Inspiration Point, we didn't even make it to the gazebo marking the location! A kind lady coming from a campground/trailhead pulled to the side of the road and offered us a ride to Wrightwood! How lucky! She told us that she had been hiking with her friends that day, and she was use to driving PCTers to-and-from Inspiration Point along her own route up and down the mountain.
I love riding in a car while out here on trail. The scenery whisks by so quickly; it's like being teleported. She dropped us off near the center of town at her favorite lunch spot. We thanked the kind lady with a few dollars to show our gratitude and jumped into Wrightwood!
Step one was to find a place to stay for the night. There weren't any hotels in town, but there is one lady who owns many properties and rents them out nightly for travelers and PCTers. I saw her flyer on the door going into the sandwich shop and began negotiating for a room to stay in for Jet and I. We both decide to take a zero-day in Wrightwood tomorrow, so we book our stay at the house for two nights. We got our room settled, enjoyed sandwiches, then made our way home for the night. The location of our house was so convenient - only a block away from the center of town.
Above: Arriving at "Aery Pines" in Wrightwood, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Upon arrival, we settled down and met our housemates for the night: Butterscotch, Owga, and Rose. They are all solo hikers along the PCT. Butterscotch is really friendly and seems almost familiar. Upstairs, we get the spacious attic-suite with a king bed and a twin bed. Jet is nice enough to offer me the king bed to sleep in tonight.
Now it's time to head back into town. We decide to only concern ourselves with grocery resupply today and to hit the gearshop for more tent stakes tomorrow. The grocery store is nicely stocked. After, we go back home, make dinner, hang out, and go to bed. It's such a cozy room with an even cozier bed. It's time to clean up and recuperate during our days off from hiking.
Night night!
Day Forty Five
Waking up tucked into such a large, soft bed in dark room was a relished comfort. Jet had offered me the large bed for the previous night, which I accepted gratefully.
We went downstairs to greet our new companion for the day: Loo; she’s a friend of Butterscotch’s. The two of them hiked together on the PCT a couple of years back. It was interesting to hear their perspective on “hiking your own trail” as their group of friends ran into similar troubles of desiring control to what Jet and I face in our duo on trail. I was craving a more individualized experience rather than a group experience, I began to realize. I opened my mind to alternate possibilities from the PCT and was affirmed in picking New Zealand as my next destination. Though I want to finish the PCT, this time isn’t the time. However, finishing my section with Jet is imperative for me. This wasn’t the time to diverge from our plans of completing the 550 mile long So-Col section of the PCT.
Two of our roommates remained the same tonight despite their claims of going back to trail that day; the amount of comfortability Jet and I exuded must have enticed Owga and Butterscotch to stay another night!
We ordered pizza for dinner. What more could you ask for on trail beyond the dense carbs and fat that a good pizza pie provides? We were so comfortable at the house that we decided to book yet another night in Wrightwood, making tomorrow a double zero for us. We were both content to enjoy our time to the fullest. We relaxed, watched some tube, and had our bedtime.
Night night.
Day Forty Six
Our zero day two in Wrightwood might’ve been the laziest day on this journey far. I relaxed at the house, ate, and watched videos until dinner time.
As we planned for more relaxation, we also planned for the ending of our great journey, at least for now. Hayley’s parents will be moving from Byron Center to Pensacola by the time we will return to Big Bear Lake, so we booked our airline tickets back home to help them move. I would also take this as an opportunity to change direction on my journey, thus solidifying the end of our journey into stone.
To put a cherry-on-top of our last day of pampering ourselves in Wrightwood, we took another trip to the market for delicious snacks and beers to enjoy tonight.
At the end of another day enjoying luxury, I tuck into bed and dream of hitting the trail tomorrow, marking the beginning of the end…
Night night.
Day Forty Seven
Above: Snow Capped Mountains along the PCT out of Wrightwood, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
We took off from Wrightwood in the very late morning and enjoyed a chill 7 mile hike.
Above: Jet cruising to new altitudes up Wright Mountain in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
When we made it to a beautiful spot on top of a cliff overlooking a gorgeous vista, we both agreed to take advantage of this wonderful campsite (at NOBO mile 361.7) and rest for the night instead of pushing to the next spot.
Above: Jet capturing a shot of Pine Mountain in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Our camp was on a “saddle” with views of the sunrise across a valley on one side and sunset behind a mountain on the other.
Above: View from camp across Lone Pine Canyon from Wright Mountain in California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Here we chilled, blogged, napped, took drone footage, enjoyed the crisp air and great vibes that came along with our beautiful spot. We also welcomed more hikers to camp as night fell.
The one downside to choosing this camp is that I went overnight with very little water as the last source was 5 miles back and the next source is over 14 miles ahead. Jet and I both hunkered down for early evenings to catch an early morning tomorrow.
Night night.
Day Forty Eight
Today’s hike was mist-ical! From our mountain top perch, Jet and I descended more than 4600ft over 14.6 miles through the clouds to the valley below. That is where we would find our next water cache.
Above: Lone Pine Canyon filled with fog in the early morning on Blue Ridge, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Almost the entire hike was through the misty clouds as we made our way down down down from the mountains and into the desert valley. In one day, the air around us changed dramatically: we woke up with brisk, breezy air; and during our hike, I was warmed by the new, yet familiar exposure of the desert sun. Although the clouds of mist falling over the trail offered momentary relief, the billowing puffs were thin and not filled with much water.
Above: Jet descending into the clouds settled in Lone Pine Canyon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
I was relieved when we finally reached the water cache as this was officially the longest distance I traveled without any water! The site was cute and supported several campsites around the area. I also spotted signs posted on the storage cabinet warning about mice around the area. I didn’t think much of anything on it at the time…
Above: Jet reading the warning signs posted inside the water cache at Swarthout Canyon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Jet and I set up separate tents 20 feet from the water cache and settled in for a nice dinner at our cozy campsite shared with kind NOBOers. I like sharing our experiences with people who have alternate perspectives from us! Through our detailed accounts of the journey, we each know a lot about the upcoming trail for those who are hiking in the opposite direction as us.
And vice versa for information being given to us! Our fellow backpackers at camp get me excited to reach the McDonalds directly off Cajon Pass tomorrow! With only 6 miles to hike, I’m so ready for my McMuffin breakfast tomorrow!
Night night.
Day Forty Nine
It was a windy night. Nature is soothing, and storms usually lull me to sleep. However, tonight's storm shook my tent and rhythmically battered my body with gentle pattering from head to toe. But it's not the wind! It's a mouse in my tent, running along the length of my body! (Luckily I wear a hat to sleep!)
It was a rude awakening, considering my uninvited guest also helped himself to his share of tortillas, which I shamefully left laying against the mesh of my tent wall. Not only was I warned about the problem of mice around the campsite, but I also practically left an offering for them just within grasp. I got up immediately and probably woke up the whole camp with instinctual clamor...
I learned a lot from this experience. Not only how to keep my camp at night but also how to handle a critter in the camp: with composure. Opening the door worked to get it out, but the mouse only left when I walked and turned away from the door. Who knew that a mouse would be spooked by a man shouting and shaking the tent door open?
With the promise of McDonalds breakfast only 6 miles away, I BOOKED it!! Needless to say, I had enough at this camp. After that mouse fiasco, I say give me comforts!!
Above: My first view of McDonalds off the PCT in Cajon Pass, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
The trail was windy and had plenty of ups and downs, but I zoomed along, leaving Jet in the dust. However, I took a wrong turn, so she caught up to my anyway... It was an adventure getting here. Eventually, we found ourselves walking through a gigantic tunnel under the highway with a runoff stream trickling through it. It could probably fit two semi-trucks stacked on top one another. When we resurfaced from the tunnel, we were at Cajon Pass. Making it to Cajon Pass was my single-mindedly focused goal, and we made it here with plenty of time to spare for my luxury McDonald's breakfast!
Above: A commemorative sign at Cajon Pass, California. 2023. by Luke Baum. The trail markers on the top of the sign read: California US 66, and below from left to right: Old Spanish Trail - National Historic Trail; Mormon Road; John Brown Toll Road 1861-1881; Trail of the Padre - Santa-Fe National Canyon - Needles National Highway; Pacific Crest Trail System.
Along the way, this sign explains the mystery of this torn-through town: what was once a resting point for many people of different cultures traveling across this expanse of land - just as Jet and I are - is now a mere highway junction, retaining little-to-none of the charm of original Camp Cajon... besides these memorials, of course! Reading these stories gives me a sense of wonder: I'm walking in the footsteps of travelers from across time.
Above: Jet ready for breakfast in Camp Cajon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum. The sign reads: "WE HAVE BUILDED A SHRINE TO FRIENDSHIP, GOOD FELLOWSHIP AND CHEER THAT ALL WHO CROSS OUR THRESHOLD MAY FIND REFRESHMENT HERE"
I am so excited to finally be here after the turbulent morning I endured! We hung out at McDonalds all morning. We got a spot in the corner, watched the crowd roll in, interacted with some interesting fellow PCTers, and indulged. There was even a fresh fruit stand outside catering to us hikers passing through.
After my recovery at this fast food oasis, I dreaded having to repair my tent in the wilderness. I made the decision of renting a room at the local Cajon Pass Inn instead. After what I learned from the memorial found off trail, I felt like I was truly honoring the spirit of Camp Cajon by staying a night.
The surprising part about Cajon Pass is that it is not walkable. There are no sidewalks or crosswalks through the on and off ramps of the bustling highway. People seem to be in too much of a hurry to pause at forlorn rest stops like these so close to large cities as this one is to LA. Fortunately, we encountered a very friendly local who was nice enough to let us hitch a ride with them to the inn as there is no other way to get there (besides taking a detour for 11 miles down on the PCT and back up to Cajon Pass along the highway... no thanks). It appeared pretty sketchy, but we were lucky.
Above: Our refuge for the night: Cajon Pass Inn in Cajon Canyon, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Cajon Pass Inn appeared like your well-kept two story motel. It had some charm, a working washer and dryer, and a surprisingly low number of guests. The room was nice, and most importantly gave me a safe, clean space to repair the hole in my tent.
For dinner, Jet and I dared the journey across the street to Del Taco. For my first time at this chain restaurant (which was set inside the gas station convenience store), the food quality was as expected. Again, I'd eat almost anything on trail. Back at the inn, Jet and I put on a reality survival show on the TV and got to blogging until we both settled into the comforts of our hotel beds and fell asleep.
Night night
Our journey continues south from Cajon Pass on our way to Big Bear Lake in next week's edition of my PCT 2023 Journals.
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