By: Luke Baum
After leaving the Pacific Crest Trail in 2023, I found myself in New Zealand only forty days later! I left for New Zealand with some tools for success and had to pick up others along the way. It wasn't easy when I whisked myself away to the other side of the world with so little preparation, but it gave me experience to learn from and perspective to live from.
Most of my time in New Zealand was spent in its most populated city -- Auckland (hosting 1.7 million of their 5.2 million total population). My plan was to earn money in the city for a couple months and then travel to hot destinations around the country.
Even though I'm a people-person, I was exhausted by this city's binge-drinking culture. Auckland is a beautiful place filled with needless stress. When I finally lined up a job opportunity at a fine dining restaurant in Auckland, I rejected their offer of employment and decided to come home to pay my debts.
I've since learned from this experience. At the time, I felt like I was making a mature decision. Now, I realize that I may have let the stress get to me! Either way, I'm happy with my decision to have spent 35 days in New Zealand.
The following is a collection of pictures and personal stories of my time in Auckland. As for the other destinations I managed to explore before leaving this beautiful country, I detailed those adventures in other posts on Life Packs!
Chapters:
Across the Pacific...
Above: Me at LAX approaching the International Terminal in Los Angeles, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
Besides taking a spin at solo travel a couple weeks prior on my way to Pensacola for the 4th of July, this adventure to New Zealand was nothing like what I had done before. Not only would I be traveling solo, but also no one was waiting for me when I got there -- other than perhaps the hostel's front desk attendant the following day.
I got on my flight from Grand Rapids and landed at LAX three hours later. Even though I had ample time to leave the airport and tour... been there, done that, LA. I am always content with hunkering down at the airport and waiting for my next flight between layovers.
Above: A man and his box at LAX, Los Angeles, California. 2023 by Luke Baum
I took advantage of every opportunity I could from scouting out the comfiest places to using the convenient trollies (above) as a base on wheels. I took my time in the airport. Once I was through security in the International Terminal, all I could do was relax by my gate.
Above: My route from Los Angeles California to Papeete, Tahiti. 2023 by Luke Baum
The longest leg of my journey from Grand Rapids to New Zealand was across the Pacific Ocean -- 8.5 hours from Los Angeles to Tahiti.
Above: An airport in the clouds in Papeete, Tahiti. 2023 by Luke Baum
Before we took off from LAX, the flight attendant asked me to swap my seat with the father of a couple teen passengers who were next to me. Of course, I happily traded places to find myself next to two teachers from Philadelphia -- Meg and Kait. These girls were both roughly the same age as myself, so our dynamic flowed effortlessly. 8 and a half hours later, I was a couple of friends richer!
Above from left to right: Kait and Meg enjoying Tahiti. 2023 by Luke Baum
Meg and Kait were fans of Women's FIFA and visiting Auckland to watch the USA team face off against other teams from across the world. Before I booked my trip to New Zealand, I had no idea that the FIFA world cup was being hosted in Auckland!
Above: A warm welcome in Papeete, Tahiti. 2023 by Luke Baum
Tahiti was beautiful and welcoming. The live musicians at the airport spoke highly for their artful culture and their need to attract tourism! I relaxed on solid ground for several hours before my next leg to my final destination -- Auckland... and I had no idea what I had gotten myself into with these girls when I got there.
When I arrived at the airport, it was so surreal. I remember feeling like my life was turned to survival mode, and whatever happened next was in my hands.
Above from left to right: Kait and Meg boarding the AT bus bound for the train station in Manukau, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I noticed Meg and Kait knew exactly what they were doing and how to get from the airport into Auckland. I followed their lead and bought myself an "AT" bus pass at a convenience-store near the exit of the terminal before boarding the bus to the train station. It felt like such a whirlwind, but the beauty of the land struck me immediately. This place felt raw and fertile with opportunity.
Above: Traveling by bus over Manukau Ward near Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
The bus pass was also used for the train that took us to Britomart Train Station at the heart of Auckland. Before I temporarily parted ways with my new friends, we made plans to meet up in a couple hours for dinner followed by FIFA festivities. It's ironic that I went off on a solo adventure and still found opportunities to adventure with others!
I hiked straight up Queen Street to my hostel, 30lb box on my shoulder, and felt so relieved when I arrived at YHA Auckland on Turner street. My check-in was easy, and it was relatively empty. I took what time I needed to unpack and clean up after over 24 hours of travel.
Above: The view from the common room at YHA Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
My room stunk like morning-breathe of a person who ate raw garlic and never brushed their teeth. I opened up a window near the ceiling, directed a fan to get fresh air into the room, and no one ever closed that window nor moved the fan over 30 nights sleeping there!
I was put through the time blender, but still, I continued on. After long-distance backpacking, you can tell yourself to push through anything. I met with Meg and Kait at a Korean restaurant that served me delicious noodles. After dinner, we made our way down Queen Street to the bay.
Above: The Cloud Convention Center hosting the FIFA Fanfestival on Queens Wharf in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Auckland was teeming with celebration. I would later realize that Aucklanders can't resist a single opportunity to party, and the hotspot for official World Cup festivities was the Fanfestival at The Cloud on the Queens Wharf.
Above: My first traditional Haka at The Cloud in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Here, I dove headfirst into the World Cup festivities. It happened to be the first day of the World Cup, so these opening ceremonies helped familiarize myself with the culture that I would attempt to integrate with the weeks to come. Perhaps it was the lack of sleep, but this experience was surreal.
Above: My first traditional Haka at The Cloud in Auckland, New Zealand continued. 2023 by Luke Baum
I felt honored to witness an authentic Maori Haka as soon as I arrived in the country! The singing, chanting, and noisemaking was brilliant. I love Pacific Island culture, so it felt like I was reliving a past life memory watching this spectacle.
Above: Spectating the spectators after FIFA's opening ceremonies at The Cloud in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
July 20, 2023 -- It was exciting that these opening events coincided with my trip as I would also end up leaving Auckland the day after the final World Cup match -- August 20, 2023 . It was low-key enough at The Cloud, so I was "eased" into life in Auckland.
Above: Up close with Sky Tower in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
At half-time, I was ready to get back to the hostel and crash for many hours. However, I quickly got up close and personal with a central landmark of Auckland -- Sky Tower -- and needed to take a picture. When completed in 1997, it was the tallest building in the southern hemisphere, but it has since been surpassed in 2022. I would come to appreciate Sky Tower for providing a waypoint in the city.
By the time I made it back to YHA, I was exhausted. I hadn't slept since over 24 hours when I woke up for my flight from Grand Rapids, Michigan. I'm so grateful that my restful night sleep set the tone for the rest of my nights in Auckland.
Fun With the Phillies
Above: A delicious sandwich at "LaLa Cafe" in Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I kept in touch with Meg and Kait the following day. They invited me to meet them across the city in Parnell at a restaurant near the Auckland War Memorial Museum. I appreciated the invitation because I had no idea about which sights to see in the city and was happy to join them.
Above: A view from inside the Auckland War Memorial Museum in Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand. by Luke Baum
I'm glad that I wasn't lonely at the beginning of this trip. Meg and Kait were great company and knew how to go with the flow. We admired the views inside and outside the museum, enjoyed conversation, and also followed our own paths from each curated collection to another.
Above: A stuffed kiwi on display in Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
This (above) was the only kiwi bird I saw on my trip as there are only roughly 68,000 left in the world. I would end up buying kiwi fruit from the bodega later on, though!
Above: Miniature replica of a traditional meeting house on display in Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
This (above) is an example of a traditional meeting house of the Maori people. In another house, we were allowed to remove our shoes and walk through a large red hall surrounded by ornate carvings detailed with glimmering pearls.
Above: Traditional Pacific Islander boat in Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
This boat (above) reminded me of a similar boat Moana takes to restore the heart of Te Fiti... It boggled my mind that this was the mode of transportation for the native people of New Zealand -- the Maori -- less than 200 years ago.
Above: Kait standing with Sky Tower in the distance in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Meg and Kait told me of their plans to watch the USA team face Portugal and convinced me to buy a ticket to the match the following day. It would definitely be worth the $20! I'm glad I met Meg and Kait; they helped me get familiar with the city and embrace the World Cup festivities.
FIFA Fest
Above: USA Women's team warming up for their FIFA World Cup match at Eden Park in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
The FIFA World Cup game against United States of America and Portugal was the first pro-soccer game I'd ever been to. It was a pleasant inaugural game, and I didn't mind the view. Though Meg and Kait got seats in a completely different, packed section of the stadium, I had a good time with the crowd around mine. My favorite part were the chants. Rooting for the US team as an American felt very patriotic. The game itself was slow with a 0-0 ending.
Above: Admiring Sky Tower in the distance on my way back to YHA in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
My earlier journey to the stadium was a breeze -- I simply rented a scooter found outside the hostel and made it to the stadium within 12 minutes. However, the way back was a different story. By the time I left the stadium, the scooters were all gone, and the flow of pedestrian traffic led me down a long route back to my hostel.
I had a good time celebrating the World Cup, but something nagged me in the back of my head while on my walk back. My days had been filled with non-stop fun and sightseeing with new friends, but I hadn't done what I set out there to do: find a job.
I saw Meg and Kait one more time before they continued onto the next leg of their World Cup trip -- Australia, but from here on, my sights were set on planting some roots during my Auckland adventure...
Auckland Adventures
Above: Boarding the train at Parnell Station in Parnell, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I'm the type of person who likes to go somewhere to get things done, so I would commit each day to setting out from the hostel to complete a new task. From establishing communication through proper channels to setting up a bank account, I searched for help from tech stores, banks, and I even took a brief trip to the United States embassy along the way to ask for direction.
However, a perk of modern living is that most of the tasks I needed to complete should be done from my phone! The system isn't set up for the people to get what we need in-person. Once this truth sank in, it was much more fun to take the train to a random part of the city and sightsee than go to a random bank. This way, I did whatever I needed to from the luxury of my portable computer instead of banging my head against wall after wall then crying when that didn't work out.
My favorite destination to work from was Parnell in honor of my Philly friends.
Above: Catching my reflection on a train bound for Britomart Station, Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
It was an overall fun experience to travel around Auckland, apply to jobs, and essentially set up life there. I got a couple of job interviews in the city quickly, but I couldn't find a job outside the city. All the jobs outside of Auckland required transportation, and I didn't want to spend all my money on a vehicle at the time.
I got an opportunity to work at an Irish pub on the wharf, but I caught something real bad the morning of my first shift and called in. I was bed ridden with an intense fever for three days. By the time I made it to the pub, they were no longer interested in hiring a no-good no-show.
Above: City skyline, Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I kept my chin up, and honestly I was alright with not working immediately. I had gotten used to this city-tourist lifestyle. Still, I continued to apply for jobs, but one opportunity after another slipped through the cracks. I applied for a membership at the city library and used their services to print my resume and other documents prospective jobs liked handy.
Above: Spectating a close game of pool in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I always found time for fun with new buddies from the hostel. The environment was a party 100% of the time -- it was a constant bender if you decided to take the drink that was handed to you every day. Most of the time, we would stay in and party in the community space at the hostel, but on occasions, we would go to the pub, bar, club, pool hall, or anywhere that served drinks for cheap.
Every Friday, a different group of people from the same countries hosted a culture night complete with authentic appetizers, entrees, and drinks. Sometimes, people would wear costumes or decorate the space. It kept hostel life active and, because the guests filtered through, there was always someone new sharing part of their culture. It was easy to settle into this lifestyle for several weeks.
Above: An American-style sign at the intersection of Turner and Queen Street near YHA Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I was encouraged to continue to search for the right opportunity. I went into random hotels and gave my information, requested interviews, and asked for redirection if there wasn't anything available.
One night, I was by myself at a bar after some friends had gone to bed. Not after long, I was approached by a nice guy named Med Iks who started conversation. Med was an interesting guy who had quite the story about his extradition from Australia. After a couple days getting to know this guy, he passed my information around to some prestigious places around the city, and I was granted an interview at one of the fanciest hotels in Auckland!
Above: Auckland Waterfront from Wynyard Quarter in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
The hotel was called QT Auckland, and the manager was looking to fill a roll in the rooftop bar. The view was incredible, and people were impressed by my "all-American charm". It was a good gig, and I tested there for a shift before they offered me the job.
Above: Preparing to cross from Wynyard Quarter to Viaduct Harbor Marina Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
But something the manager told me when I first met him stuck with me, "if even a little part of you feels doubt, then don't go through with it". Whether or not this was good advice, I couldn't get it out of my head. Just as I was about to sign the offer, I flaked. I figured: why would I want to work in fine-dining in Auckland, rack up interest on my college debt, and have to pay for rent when I was incredibly homesick and could work fine-dining in Grand Rapids, live with my family, and help them move out of Byron Center?
Above: A tall palm and native bird flying overhead Meyers Park near YHA Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Everything seemed to make sense from there. I had enough of Auckland and was ready to go so soon. I didn't even think about traveling around the country beyond a couple hours away from Auckland by car. I was set on buying my ticket home and paying off my college debt ASAP, which had been officially unforgiven by the United States Supreme Court at the time.
After soul-searching and ensuring this was what felt right, I booked my flight for one and a half weeks later, relieved to release my attachments from Auckland and freely tour the city and surrounding landscapes.
"Winter" Wonderland
Above: Flowing fountain in the Winter Garden in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Just as August is the end of Summer in the northern hemisphere, it is also the end of Winter in the southern hemisphere. Even though that is the case, New Zealand had unbelievably mild weather while I was there mid-August.
This was a blessing because I could easily walk around the city and tour beautiful places like: the Winter Garden.
Above: Information plaque outside The Winter Garden in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Having destinations like this in Auckland made it enjoyable to venture around aimlessly. Before stumbling upon these greenhouses, I had no idea this beauty was nestled in a park near Auckland War Memorial Museum. Auckland has many parks and protected spaces, which enhances the natural beauty. When I pealed back the layers of the city from the geography, I remembered: Auckland, New Zealand rests atop a dormant volcano!
Enjoy these pictures I captured inside these protected spaces and greenhouses:
Above: Courtyard in the Winter Garden, Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: native flowers kept warm in a greenhouse in the Winter Garden, Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: Statue standing in a courtyard in the Winter Garden Auckland Domain, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: native flowers kept warm in a greenhouse in the Winter Garden, Auckland Domain, New Zealand continued. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: native flowers kept warm in a greenhouse in the Winter Garden, Auckland Domain, New Zealand cont. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: Fern sanctuary outside the Winter Garden, Auckland Domain, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Museum Mischief
Above: Auckland War Memorial Museum standing atop Observatory Hill in Auckland Domain, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I found myself at the museum for the third time near the end of my trip. Because admission was free to Auckland residents, and I jumped through hoops to prove my New Zealand residency, I also enjoyed the luxury of free admission.
Above: admiring the Maori war memorial to the fallen outside Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Above: Maori performers posing after a Haka presentation at the Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
As I entered the museum, I noticed a congregation surrounding a beautiful vocal and percussive performance and immediately knew I wanted to be part of whatever that was. I got a closer look and was invited to spectate a Haka performance and history lesson up in the auditorium. I paid the $20NZD ticket price back at the museum entrance and made my way up the elevator. The auditorium was intimate and could probably hold about 200 people.
How could one not be enamored by the intensity and talent?
Above: Me leaning against a piece of art in the Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
A nice couple encouraged me to get a picture with this ceremonial boat. I didn't even think about putting my arm on this masterpiece, it felt natural! This was the mischief that I got up to at the museum...
Above: The tail of the boat previously pictured in Auckland Museum, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
It was interesting to learn about Maori culture and history. These people are fierce and never gave up when colonizers came to seek control of their land. It has been an on-going mission for the Maori to maintain sovereignty.
Au Revoir Auckland
Above: Queen Street intersecting Mayoral Drive in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
In the final week of my journey, I decided to live it up! I feared not for a little food and excursion splurge. Besides, I'd already indulged in putzing up and down Queen street, finding food and drink, these past several weeks.
This street corner (pictured above) was a block away from Turner street (where YHA Auckland is) and hosted the bodega where I bought my groceries called "Volt Convenience". The bodega was always stocked with delicious, fresh food. I became a regular there, and the woman who ran the store became fond of seeing me coming in extra for snacks on my way to the movie theater.
(Also, I loved when it was the pedestrians' turn to cross the street, I could walk diagonally across the wide intersections of Auckland).
Above: Event Cinema tucked behind The Civic Theater in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
The cinema has always been a favorite pass-time of mine, so living it up meant seeing the latest movies! The modern movie theater built inside this dated Civic Theater (above) was a charming touch to Auckland. I saw "Oppenheimer", "Barbie", and "Gran Turismo" (one of those movies is not like the rest).
Above: Auckland Town Hall from Aotea Square in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
Whenever I exited the theater and started along my usual route to the hostel, I would spill onto Aotea Square. It was here the city hosted ice skating during my first weekend; it was here I bought my plane ticket back home over a Subway sandwich! When it sank in that I was leaving my temporary home, I snapped this picture (above) and said goodbye to Aotea square and planned for my finals days in New Zealand.
Above: My favorite dumplings from "Dumpling House" in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
These dumplings (above), courtesy of "Dumpling House", were my favorite food in all of Auckland, and definitely part of my top 5 all-time favorites. I made sure to go to Dumpling House as much as I could before setting off back home. I went so much that they ran out of ingredients and offered me free fried rice instead for being such a valuable customer! I crave these dumplings to this day and am still looking for their spicy, flaky sauce I drizzled on top.
I did a lot of planning for excursions at Dumpling House.
My stomach is growling...
Above: Me in the passenger's seat yet behind the wheel in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
I needed to explore New Zealand outside the city before I went home, so I planned a couple excursions and decided to rent a car. After trying my luck at three rental agencies, none of them allowed walk-ins. However, they all recommended the same place on the outskirts of the city -- Ezi Car Rental. Given that I had no experience driving on the other side of the road, nor on the other side of the car, I was surprised yet elated by how easy it was to rent a car for 24hrs, and only for about $70NZD!
Driving took some getting use-to, but luckily the car rental agency was located directly off the highway. All I needed was to follow my maps, and the flow of traffic, onto the highway. From there, basically all I needed to do was point the car in the right direction!
On my way back into Auckland, the traffic jam was terrible. The car ramps getting into the city were narrow and did not support the thousands of commuters driving into the city. When I was off the highway, it was enjoyable to find my hostel in the heart of the city and park my car outside for the night.
Now, this post is all about Auckland, so stay tuned for the next Life Packs update on my New Zealand excursions!
Above: Full crowd at The Cloud watching the FIFA World Cup in Auckland, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
On the last night of my trip, it happened to be the final match for the FIFA World Cup! Spain was facing England, and I had Spanish friends at the hostel. Therefore, VAMOS ESPAÑA! Because I had no clue that the first game was on my first day, it's fitting that I didn't know the last game was on my last day. Even as a casual fan of soccer, I rode the World Cup wave all throughout my New Zealand adventure.
I stayed up a little later than I should have with my friends at the hostel that night, but it felt right to do the city justice with a night of toasts. Thank you, Auckland, for teaching me several lessons on adult life, even if I didn't apply them at the time.
Above: Waiting on the runway to depart from Auckland International Airport, New Zealand. 2023 by Luke Baum
With my 30lb box back on my shoulder, I hiked down Queen Street from YHA one last time. From Britomart, I retraced my steps back to Auckland International Airport. It was bittersweet, complete with a light drenching from the New Zealand springtime sunshowers I had come to love.
I was ready for my 13hr nonstop flight from Auckland to San Francisco and new adventures on the horizon.
Conclusion
In the end, I followed my heart, left New Zealand, and returned home after thirty five days.
I expected to face each challenge as it came in New Zealand, as I learned to do on the PCT. However, moving my life to another country was a separate endeavor that required research and planning. God knows what could have awaited me down any different bend in New Zealand, but my horizons lied elsewhere. Maybe soon, I'll find myself exploring the beautiful mountains and coasts of New Zealand again.
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